“Here in the United States we turn our rivers and streams into sewers and dumping-grounds, we pollute the air, we destroy forests, and exterminate fishes, birds and mammals — not to speak of vulgarizing charming landscapes with hideous advertisements. But at last it looks as if our people were awakening. “
You would be forgiven for thinking this quote was from the past few years. After all, it hits a little too close to home, doesn’t it? Actually, the disregard for nature was brought to attention more than 100 years ago when Theodore Roosevelt voiced his concern to Outlook Magazine over the irresponsible use of land in our country.
When Roosevelt became president in 1901, the United States was going through a period of rapid development. Concerned about the destruction of historic artifacts, Roosevelt went on to protect 230 million acres of public land (which included 150 national forests, 51 federal bird reserves, 4 national game preserves, 18 national monuments, and 5 national parks), establishing a precedent for conservation at a critical time in our nation’s history.
Of these conservation efforts, the 1906 Antiquities Act is perhaps Teddy Roosevelt’s most influential and, at the moment, controversial legacy. This law gives the President the authority to create national monuments in order to protect public lands with historic, cultural or scientific significance.
With the Antiquities Act in place, Roosevelt wasted no time creating new monuments. Devils Tower in Wyoming was first. Then Petrified Forest, Montezuma Castle, and El Morro. Over the final 30 months of his second term, Roosevelt established 18 new national monuments. The man was busy. You can almost picture Teddy dishing out monuments like Oprah, “You get a monument! You get a monument!”
56 years after becoming a national monument, Petrified Forest was designated a national park in 1962. The United States’ 30th national park, and park #15 on our national park tour.
As the trees died or were knocked down by wind or water, many were carried downstream and buried by layers of sediment. The logs soaked up groundwater and silica from volcanic ash and over time crystallized into quartz.
National Park Service
Despite covering 221,390 acres of land in eastern Arizona, Petrified Forest feels rather contained. When visiting a national park, you should plan to spend a minimum of 2 – 3 days to immerse yourself. That being said, I think Petrified Forest is an exception; one day is probably enough time to experience the history and culture of the park. Our vacation days are limited, after all.
If you are camping, be aware that there are no designated campgrounds inside Petrified Forest. Backcountry camping is your only option if you want to sleep in the park boundaries. The next closest option to staying near the park are the 2 gift shops at the south entrance that allow free overnight parking. With our sleeping bag laid out in the back of our SUV, sleeping in a dimly lit, almost-vacant parking lot gave me some eerie Texas Chainsaw Massacre vibes, but it ended up working out perfect – saving us both time and money.
Like most national parks, the best way to experience Petrified Forest is on foot. Starting at the north entrance and heading south (there is only one road through the park), here are 8 of the best things to do to maximize your time in Petrified Forest National Park.
1. Painted Desert Visitor Center
The first thing you should do when visiting any national park is stop in at the visitor center, and Petrified Forest is no exception. At the Painted Desert Visitor Center, you can learn about the history of the park before venturing out, pick up a trail map, or grab a souvenir (like these vintage magnets) from the gift shop. If you have any questions before heading into the park, be sure to talk to the park rangers while you are here.
I have to admit my enthusiasm for national park visitor centers is rivaled by few other people.
2. Painted Desert Rim Trail and the Painted Desert Inn
While most of the petrified wood is found on the south end of the park, the north side of Petrified Forest is compelling in its own right. The Painted Desert Rim Trail is a gentle and unchallenging one mile stroll that offers striking views of the aptly named Painted Desert.
It is also here that you will find the Painted Desert Inn. Built in the 1920s from petrified wood, the Inn originally functioned as a tourist destination. Visitors are now welcomed by a museum highlighting the building’s past, as well as an ice cream parlor in the summer. Because who doesn’t love ice cream.
For the more adventurous, the Painted Desert area is a popular overnight backpacking destination. If there was one thing I wish we would have done in the park, it is backcountry camping in the Painted Desert. As always, Leave No Trace.
3. Puerco Pueblo
I was surprised to learn that human history plays as big a role in Petrified Forest as the petrified wood. Experience that history on this short, 0.3 mile stroll that takes you among the remains of the ancestral Puebloan people, including the hundred room pueblo that was once home to around 200 people.
Newspaper Rock, along the south end of the trail, features over 650 petroglyphs, ranging from 650 to 2,000 years old. These rock carvings help give us a glimpse into the life of the ancestral Puebloan people. Can you spot the Solar Marker along the trail?
When it comes to petroglyphs and human artifacts, Amanda is indifferent at best. She is attracted to the natural beauty of the parks, as opposed to the human history. At first I couldn’t understand the disinterest and it drove me a little mad, but different strokes, right? This trail is short enough and packed with enough artifacts, remains and petroglyphs to make everyone happy.
4. Blue Mesa
This one mile loop trail takes you among one of the most unique desert landscapes in America.
If you are driving from north to south, this is likely to be your first time seeing petrified wood. However, it’s the multi-colored rock formations that steal the show. Walking through this otherworldly landscape is one of the best experiences in Petrified Forest National Park.
5. Jasper Forest
If you only have time for one hike in the park, Jasper Forest is my recommendation. This “Off the Beaten Path” hike contains one of the largest deposits of petrified wood in the park. While technically off-trail, an old, eroding road and a map help make it relatively easy to follow the 2.5 mile round trip route.
Jasper Forest contains some of the most impressive pieces of petrified wood that we saw during our journey through the park. Wandering up, over and around the huge chunks of petrified wood that highlight this hike will allow you a close-up look at the wood’s radiant colors.
6. Crystal Forest
If you leave Jasper Forest with the desire to see even more petrified wood, or 2.5 miles sounds like a little too much, opt for the 0.75 mile Crystal Forest trail. A great trail for kids, Crystal Forest takes you among plenty of petrified logs, giving you excellent opportunities to gaze upon the beautiful crystals found in the wood.
7. Giant Logs
Continuing south from Crystal Forest will bring you to the Rainbow Forest Museum and Visitor Center – the last stop before you run into the park’s southern boundary.
From the parking area, tackle the 0.4 mile Giant Logs trail, highlighted by “Old Faithful,” a 10 ft. wide log at the top of the trail.
In an alternate universe, Petrified Forest could have been named Giant Logs National Park. On second thought, let’s be thankful that is not the case.
8. Long Logs and Agate House
If you have followed this itinerary starting in the north end of the park, you likely have had your fix of petrified wood by now. However, if you have a fever, and the only prescription is more petrified wood, this 2.6 mile round trip hike is a perfect way to end your day at Petrified Forest.
The turnaround point on this combined trail is the Agate House, an eight room pueblo made entirely of petrified wood.
What Petrified Forest National Park lacks in grand, dramatic vistas, it makes up for with history and culture that is matched by few other national parks.
Sadly, the removal, or theft, of petrified wood is an ongoing problem at Petrified Forest. Make Teddy Roosevelt proud and leave all petrified wood, fossils, artifacts and natural objects in their place.
Don’t disappoint Teddy.
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