I should have known better.
After returning home from a fantastic road trip to the Black Hills in South Dakota, planning our next national park visit was priority number one. Like Chappelle’s Show Tyrone Biggums, we had the itch.
Being just a few hours from Denver, Black Canyon of the Gunnison was a logical choice for our 6th national park. Despite existing in relative obscurity, Black Canyon is one of the steepest, deepest, and most narrow canyons in America. So a few weeks later we loaded up our camping gear and set off towards Gunnison, Colorado.
The sun was hovering just above the horizon as we pulled into our campsite on the South Rim of the canyon. In what has become routine, I set up the tent and started building a fire while Amanda prepared dinner. While only camping for two nights, it was apparent we should have brought more firewood.
To avoid sitting around an empty fire pit like a couple of creeps, we eyed up some nearby brushwood that could help remedy our situation.
Prior to moving out West, our camping experiences were limited to a few local campgrounds and Pennsylvania state parks. That is to say, I was basically Michael Scott: Surivor Man. In that neck of the woods, gathering fallen logs for firewood was, for the most part, A-OK.
Now staying at a national park campground for the first time, something was telling me that collecting downed wood here was forbidden. With our wood in short supply and a cluster of dead branches just a few feet from our campsite, it was time to make a decision.
Against my instincts, I figured what’s the harm in burning a few fallen branches. It wasn’t like I was chopping down trees, right?
So there I was, dragging a handful of branches over to our site when an older couple in a golf cart – you know the type – happened to be passing by and harshly informed me that gathering wood is not allowed here. I acknowledged my lack of judgement and apologized. And that was that, or so I thought.
This point was driven home an hour later when a park ranger stopped by. Turns out I was reported for gathering wood. Embarrassed, I expressed my ignorance as my mind raced through the possible punishments – a fine? kicked out of the park? banned from the national parks?!
Thankfully, I was let off with a warning and a learning experience.
I debated telling this story because, in hindsight, it makes me feel incompetent and irresponsible. In my defense, there are some national parks that do allow you to gather fallen trees – the Great Smoky Mountains being one of them.
However, gathering firewood in most national parks is not only against the rules, but can be damaging to the ecosystem. Similar to folks taking home a “souvenir” from Petrified Forest – the effects of one person burning a few branches are negligible; the effects from hundreds, or thousands, of people clearing out a forest are potentially devastating.
So take care of the land for others to enjoy. Learn from my mistakes.
With that behind us, we awoke from our sleeping bag the next morning with one agenda: revenge.
Actually, it was time to go explore the park!
After fueling up with this delicious banana bread and a protein shake, we stopped at the first place worth visiting in every national park – the Visitor Center. A park ranger gave us a few recommendations for a day’s itinerary, and with that we were on our way.
The Black Canyon’s South Rim consists of just 4 established hiking trails, none of which are longer than 2 miles. We selected 3 trails that provide distinct viewpoints of the canyon’s dramatic walls – the Rim Rock Nature Trail, Cedar Point Nature Trail, and Warner Point Nature Trail.
While all are excellent, make sure you don’t skip the Cedar Point trail, which gives you the best views of the famous Painted Wall – the tallest cliff in Colorado.
If peering down some 2,000 feet to the Gunnison River gives you the urge to see the canyon from down below, you better tighten up those hiking boots. Venturing into the depths of the canyon via one of the unmarked scrambles down the canyon walls is possible. Before you go free soloing, I highly recommend connecting with a park ranger to reduce your chances of getting into danger.
We decided to skip scaling down the canyon for two reasons: 1) this was meant to be a relaxing trip and 2) poison ivy is nearly impossible to avoid inside the canyon – which was a deal breaker for Amanda, who gets poison ivy if the wind blows in the wrong direction.
Luckily for us, and for you, a thigh busting vertical climb isn’t the only option for reaching the river. After hiking around the South Rim all morning, we hopped in our SUV and took the steep, winding East Portal Road down to the Gunnison River.
Since the inner canyon only sees 30 minutes of sunlight each day, reaching the water was a welcome reprieve from the blaring afternoon sun. The view down the Black Canyon from the river bank is beautiful. The solitude is even better.
Being in a landlocked state with a dry climate severely limits the opportunities to take a swim. So when we found a nice calm section of water we couldn’t help but take a dip to cool off. I feel obliged to tell you that, while not illegal, swimming in the Gunnison River is strongly discouraged – multiple drownings have occurred here due to the fast moving currents.
Between swimming and the wood incident, I was apparently feeling quite rebellious this day.
On our way home the next day we couldn’t help but discuss the park over lunch at High Alpine Brewing in Gunnison.
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park might not be as vast or immense as the Grand Canyon, but as Teddy Roosevelt famously said, “comparison is the thief of joy.” The Black Canyon does possess a magical combination of traits that result in a dramatic and moody landscape. Frankly, it’s one of a kind.
Just don’t forget to bring your own firewood.
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